Gareth Pugh’s emblematic chevron is also one of the symbols of Art Deco, and the glamour of the Deco years in Hollywood was one of the sub-currents in the designer’s latest collection. That meant he continued to move away from the hard alien edge that was once his signature in favor of a more sinuous line. Karlie Kloss in an obi-belted cashmere wool coat with matching flared pants? Nouvelle Dietrich! Likewise the full-length fishtailed gown in chevrons of chiffon and leather, with a capelet draped over the shoulders. Twenty-first-century Adrian!
Pugh led with suits of solid-looking neoprene-backed leathers. He said he wanted his women to look strong, but they looked stiff in light of what was to come. He went up a gear with a coat-dress and pants in a samurailike glazed basket weave, a glamorous cape coat with frayed edges, and an asymmetrical crocheted coat over leggings. They had the drama that the designer’s fans expect, but they were an evolution of the softer, more romantic mood he initiated for Spring. His key silhouette—an A-line cut on the square, falling away to points, with a natural shoulder—was all about movement. He emphasized that further with a group of pieces draped in fine chains, which slithered like flapper dresses. Pugh accessorized the collection with men in outfits that were designed to emphasize masculine vulnerability in the face of feminine strength. Hence, pleated palazzo pants for the guy in your life.